Brassiere



Aug. 23, 1960 Filed Dec. 30, 1957 L. MALMSTEAD BRASSIERE 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 FIG. 3.

INVENTOR LIL YA/V MALMSTEAD g- 23, 1960 L. MALMSTEAD 2,949,915

BRASSIERE States This invention relates to a brassiere and more particularly to a womans undergarment having provision for supporting and molding the breast.

In the past, many means have been evolved for bust support for women, but for the most part the emphasis has always been on molding the breast to an ideal form. In the process of designing brassieres with this idea in mind, the designers have neglected certain practical problems. For one thing, the brassieres constructed in the past have made it very dilficult for a woman to take part in natural activity. With the prior art garment of this type, when a woman raises her arms over her head or leans backwards, she is subjected to considerable restraint by the fact that her brassiere restricts this sort of motion, particularly if it is attached to the girdle. Furthermore, repeated activity of backward bending and twisting brings about a shifting of the brassiere so that it becomes twisted and moves around the womans body. Furthermore, the brassieres as designed in the past have required considerable custom work in order to conform to an individual womans body; if the brassiere was not of the custom type but was a general stock item, it only fitted a certain number of women with any degree of accuracy. These and other difiiculties experienced with the prior art devices have been obviated in a novel manner by the present invention.

It is, therefore, an outstanding object of the present invention to provide a brassiere which will permit athletic activity without discomfort.

It is a further object of this invention to provide a brassiere of such construction that only a few sizes need to be kept in stock and yet that will fit a woman purchasing it without the need for custom alterations or the like.

A still further object of this invention is the provision of an under-garment of the brassiere type in which the garment is restrained against movement upon a womans body and yet, nevertheless, provides for uplift and molding of the breasts.

With these and other objects in view, as will be apparent to those skilled in the art, the invention resides in the combination of parts set forth in the specification and covered by the claims appended hereto.

The character of the invention, however, may be best understood by reference to certain of its structural forms as illustrated by the accompanying drawings in which:

Figure 1 is a perspective view showing the use on a model of a brassiere made according to the principles of the present invention,

Figure 2 is a front elevational view of the brassiere,

Figure 3 is a rear elevational view of the brassiere, and

Figure 4 is a detailed view of a ferred embodiment invention.

In the specification which follows, the expressions vertical, horizontal, left, righ up, down, and similar expressions refer to the corresponding directions relative to the upright human body.

portion of the pre- 2,949,915. Patented Aug. 23, 1960 Referring first to Figure 1, wherein is best shown the general features of the invention, the brassiere of the invention, indicated generally by the reference 10, is shown in use on a female model 11. The brassiere consists generally of an upper portion 12 having a left breast pocket 13 and a right breast pocket 14, and a lower portion 15.

Referring particularly to Figure 2, it can be seen that the upper and lower portions 12 and 15 are joined to a left body section 16 and a right body section 17. The left breast pocket 13 is joined to the left body section 16 by a shoulder strap 18, while a similar shoulder strap 19 joins the right breast pocket 14 to the right body section 17.

The right breast pocket 14 consists of an inner portion 21 and an outer portion 22. The inner portion is formed of an inelastic material such as satin cloth or broadcloth which, before being formed into the pocket, is of the flat shape shown in Figure 4. As indicated in this figure, the inner portion 21 is formed with a curved outer line 23, a curved upper line 24 and intersecting straight lines 25 and 26 which meet at an apex 27 in a very large angle. This piece of cloth is formed into a threedimensional surface which resembles a cone or a paraboloid and in the plan view takes up the appearance shown in Figure 2 and in dotted lines in Figure 4. The outer portion 22 which makes up the remainder of the breast pocket is provided with two intersecting straight lines which are sewed to the lines 25 and 26 of the inner portion to make up the complete cone, paraboloid or hemi-sphere of the breast pocket. The outer portion 22 is provided with a straight peripheral portion 28 which is sewn to the right body section 17. The outer portion 22 is formed of an elastic-cloth material which is capable of stretching in a horizontal direction only as indicated by the double-ended arrow. It should be observed also that the inner portion 21 is provided with a cutout 29 in which is sewn a strap portion 31 formed of elasticcloth material which is capable of stretching in a vertical direction only as indicated by the double-ended arrow. It is to the upper, central portion of this strap portion that the shoulder strap 19 is sewn. In the same way, the left breast pocket 13 is provided with an inner portion 32 and an outer portion 33, the inner portion 32 being the mirror image of the inner portion 21 of the right breast pocket 14 and being formed of an inelastic satin material. Similarly, this inner portion is provided with a strap portion 34 formed of elastic-cloth material which is capable of stretching in a vertical direction only as indicated by the double-ended arrow, and to the upper, central portion of which is sewn one end of the shoulder strap 18. The outer portion 33 is the mirror image of the outer portion 22 of the right breast pocket 14 and is formed of an elastic-cloth material which is capable of stretching only in a horizontal direction. The outer edge of the outer portion 33 is sewn to the left body section 16.

The upper portion 12 of the brassiere is also formed with an intermediate web 35. This web is formed of an elastic-cloth material which is capable of being stretched in the horizontal direction only, as indicated by the double-headed arrow. This intermediate portion is of a generally inverted T-shape with a leg of the T extending between. the breast pockets 13 and 14 and being sewn thereto; it is the curved peripheral portion 23 of the breast pockets which are sewn to this leg of the intermediate web 35. The upper edges of the intermeof. The outermost ends of the web 35 are sewn to the body sections 16 and 17. The lower edge 36 of the I elastic connector 37 attached to adiaphragm 38. The

connector is tor-med of an inelastic material, such as satin cloth or broadcloth, while the section 38 is fo'rmedQof' an elastic-cloth material which is capable of being stretched in a vertical direction but notin a horizontal direction, as indicated by the double-headed arrow. The upper end of the connector 37 is sewn along two short lines.39 and 40 to the upper portion 12. The lower part ofjthe-connector 3.7 is somewhat enlarged and is provided with straight lines 41, 42' and 43, set at substantial',-angles to one another and forming a semi-hexagonal figure which is attached to a simila-rly formed cutout on the diaphragm 33'. The side edges of the connector 37 and the upper edges of the diaphragm 38 form continuouslycurved lines surrounding the breast pockets Band 14 and the lines may be separated from the edges of the pockets by a slight distance, as shown in the drawing; small portions of the intermediate web 35' surrounding the breast pockets 13 and 14 in the gaps thus formed can be seen in Figure 3. The side edges of the diaphragm 38 are sewn to the body sections 17 and '16, respectively, all the way from the bottom edge 46 of the diaphragm to closely adjacent the lower edge of the breast pockets 13 and 14. It is evident, then, that the upper and lower portions of the brassiere are entirely separate from one another and that the upper portion (particularly the intermediate web 35) overlies the upper part of the diaphragm 38. Furthermore, there is a common pair of edges of each portion which are sewn to corresponding edges of the body sections 16 and 17.

'The free endof the left body section 16 is provided with loops and its lower edge is provided with a hook and eye arrangement 47. The lower edge of the left body strap 16 is provided with a triangular insert 48 formed of elastic-cloth material which is capable of being stretched in a horizontal direction only, as indicated by the double-headed arrow. The lower part of theright body strap 17 is provided with a similar triangular insert 49 capable also of stretching only in the horizontal direction. The right body strap 17 is provided at its outer end'with suitable hooks 51 for en-, gagement with the loops 50. Furthehrm-ore, the lower edge of the body section 17 is provided with a hookand-eye arrangement 52 permitting it to be fastened to the upper edge of the usual girdle. A similar hook-andeye arrangement 53 is fastened to and extends downwardly from the lower edge 38 of the lower portion 15 of the brassiere.

It should be noted that the brassiere is formed-with several series of loops 50, thus permitting adjustment of. the tension in the body sections 16 and 17. Also, the.

shoulder straps 18 and 19 may be adjusted in the usual manner by means of a buckle-type fastener.

The operation of the device of the invention will now be readily understood in view of the above description. The brassiere is worn as shown in Figure 1 with the lower portion 15 drawn tightly across the diaphragm by means of the adjustments available in the loops 50 and thehooks 51 of the body sections '16 and 17 The breast pockets 13 and 14 are drawn upwardly by suitable adustment of the shoulder straps 18 and 19. In this situation, it can be seen, then, that the shoulder straps provide a. resilient upward force because of their attachment with strap portions 31 and 34 and because of the resiliency inherent therein. Furthermore, the attachment of the hook-and-eye arrangement 53 to a girdle causes a downward-pulling force on the lower portion 38.. The downward force on thev lower section 38 is transmitted through the resilient material of the upper portion which,,,it will be remembered, is subject to stretching in the Nertical direction only; through thecon-v nector 37 to the upper part of the brassiere on the lines 39 and 40. The forces acting on the breast pockets 13' and 14 are lateral because of the tension in the body sections 16 and 17. A resilient character is afforded the motion in the sideways direction, permitting separation of the breast pockets, by the intermediate web 35 which is capable of stretching in the horizontal direction only. This resilient character of'the transverse movement of the brassiere is enhanced by'the' presence of the outer portions 22 and 33 which, as has been stated, are capable of stretching in the horizontal direction only. These outer portions are, capable of not only permitting stretching of the pockets, but also of forming the breast and supporting it resiliently in the desired manner. It can be seen, then, that, during natural activity, several changes take place in the parts of the body which are compensated for by the present invention. For one thing, stretching and. bending of. the. body produce-a change in measurementaround the. chest. This change comes about for various reasons, including the presence. of greater or lesser amounts of air in thelungs and the natural expansion of the rib cage. It can be seen that. the resiliency built into theupper portion '12. of the. invention permits such changes to take place withoutum. desirable pressure. onthe. breasts. At the same time such motions cause the'distance between the shoulders and the waist to change. In the case of prior art brassieres this change moved them out of place, giving no. support to the breasts. In thepresent case, the presence of the vertical. resilient characteristicspermit compensation for these. changes indistance without changing the. fundamental function of the brassiere.. Basically, the. construction permits the breastpockets 13 and 14 andthe intermediate, web 35 to. remain in the uppermost po.. sition along with the shoulder straps, while the lower portion '15 is permitted to .move downwardly. Slidingv between .the upper and lower portions ispermitted because, they. are entirely separate and theresiliency aiforded by the strap portions 3 1 and 34 permits a further compensation in this direction. forthe change in girth of the wearer during natural activity is provided by the. triangular inserts 48' and 49 in. the body sections 16 and 17. Since. the diaphragm 38..

is formed of-material which permits stretching in the vertical direction-only, these triangular inserts (which:

permit stretching in the horizontal. direction) compensate for the general rigidity ofthe lower part of the brassiere. The neteiiect of this-type of construction is that. the diaphragm 38- tendsto keep the entire. lower part of the brassiere from. stretching laterally, but, nevertheless, because of the triangular inserts, the lower por-. '[lOILOfIhe brassiere as awhole is permitted to stretch. The. result of this is that, whilelateral movement of the. breast pockets is permitted, it islimi-ted by the fact that the diaphragm 38 is fairly rigid in that direction.

It is obvious that minor changes may bemade in the.

form and construction .ofthe invention .withoutdepart ing from thematcrial spirit thereof. It is not, however,

desired to confine the inventionto the exact form herein: shown and described, but itis desired to include all such as properly comewithin. the scope claimed.

The invention having been .thus described, what is.

claimed as new and desired to secureby LettersPatent is:

1. A brassierecomprising breast pockets arranged in horizontal side-by-siderelation, two body sections eachconnected at one of its ends to the outeredge of the.

pockets, thebody sections being adapted to be adjustably connected'at their other, ends, a shoulder strap connected at one end to the upper edge of each said pocket and at. the other end to therespective body sections, each breast pocket having an outer portion formed of-elastic ma terial which permits substantial stretching'inthe horizontal direction only, each-said pocket havingasubstantial por.

tionformed of;-- a. singleypiece .ofi: inelasticfabric having an angular cutoutremovedironrthe piecc,; theapexrofsi Similar compensations.

the angular cutout being adjacent to the center of the pocket, the edges of the said angular cutout being sewed to the remainder of the pocket so that the fabric is formed into a generally-conical shape, the said piece of fabric having a curved edge extending from the said angular cutout at the side thereof adjacent to the inner part of the pocket, the said curved edge extending from the cutout which lies vertically under the center of the pocket around the inner part of the pocket to a point well above the center of the pocket, thus providing for a swinging action.

2. A brassiere comprising breast pockets arranged in horizontal side-by-side relation, two body sections each connected at one of its ends to the outer edge of one of the pockets, the body sections being adapted to be adjustably connected at their other ends, a shoulder strap connected at one end to the upper edge of each said pocket and at the other end to the respective body section, each said pocket having a substantial portion formed of a single piece of inelastic fabric having a V-shaped cutout removed from the piece, the apex of the cutout being adjacent the center of the pocket, the edges of the said cutout being sewn to the remainder of the pocket so that the fabric is formed into a generally-conical shape, the said piece of fabric having a curved edge extending from the said cutout at the side thereof adjacent the lower part of the pocket, the said curved edge extending around the inner part of the pocket to a point well above the center of the pocket, thus providing for a swinging action.

3. A brassiere comprising an upper and a lower portion, the upper portion having two breast pockets with an intermediate web joining and underlying them, the web being formed of elastic material permitting substantial stretching in one direction only, the lower portion consisting of a diaphragm formed of elastic material permitting substantial stretching in one direction only, a non-elastic connector joining the upper edge of the diaphragm to the upper part of the intermediate web, the upper portion overlying a substantial portion of the upper part of the lower portion, two body sections each connected at one of its ends to the outer edge of one of the pockets and to the adjacent edges of the intermediate web and to the adjacent edge of the diaphragm, the body sections being adapted to be adjustably connected at their other ends, each breast pocket having an outer portion formed of elastic material which permits substantial stretching in one direction only.

4. A brassiere comprising an upper and a lower portion, the upper portion having two breast pockets with an intermediate web joining and underlying them, the web being formed of elastic material permitting substantial stretching in one direction only, the lower portion consisting of a diaphragm formed of elastic material permitting substantial stretching in one direction only, a connector joining the upper edge of the diaphragm to the upper part of the intermediate web, the upper portion overlying a substantial portion of the upper part of the lower portion, two body sections each connected at one of its ends to the outer edge of one of the pockets and to the adjacent edges of the intermediate web and the diaphragm, the body sections being adapted to be adjustably connected at their other ends, each said pocket having a substantial portion formed of a single piece of inelastic fabric having cutout removed from the piece, the apex of the cutout being adjacent the center of the pocket, the edges of the said cutout being sewed to the portion of the pocket remaining after the cutout is removed so that the fabric is formed into part of a generally conical surface, the said piece of fabric having a curved edge extending from the said cutout at the side thereof adjacent to the lower part of the pocket, the said curved edge-extending around the inner part of the pocket to a point well above the center of the pocket, thus providing for a swinging action.

5. A brassiere comprising an upper and a lower portion, the upper portion having two breast pockets, the lower portion consisting of a diaphragm section for-med of elastic material, a non-elastic connector joining the upper edge of the diaphragm section to the upper part of the upper portion, the upper portion overlying a substantial part of the lower portion, two body sections each connected at one of its ends to the outer edge of one of the pockets and the diaphragm, the body sections being adapted to be adjustably connected at their other ends.

6. A brassiere comprising an upper and a lower portion, the upper portion having two breast pockets with an intermediate web joining and underlying them, the web being formed of elastic material permitting substantial stretching in the horizontal direction only, the lower portion consisting of a diaphragm formed of elastic ma-- terial permitting substantial stretching in the vertical direction only, a connector joining the upper edge of the diaphragm to the upper part of the intermediate web, the upper portion overlying a substantial part of the lower portion, two body sections each connected at one of its ends to the outer edge of one of the pockets and to the adjacent edges of the intermediate Web and the diaphragm, the body sections being adapted to be adjustably connected at their other ends, each breast pocket having an outer portion formed of elastic material which permits substantial stretching in the horizontal direction only, each of the said pockets having a substantial portion formed of a single piece of inelastic fabric having an angular cutout removed from the piece, the apex of the angular cutout being adjacent the center of the pocket, the edges of the said angular cutout being sewed to the remainder of the pocket so that the fabric is formed into part of a generally-conical surface, the said piece of fabric having a curved edge extending from the said angular cutout at the side thereof adjacent the lower part of the pocket, the said curved edge extending around the inner part of the pocket to a point well above the center of the pocket, thus providing for a swinging action, each of the body sections being of substantial width and having a triangular insert in the lower portion, the insert being formed of elastic material permitting substantial stretching in the horizontal direction only, the base of the triangle being co-extensive with the lower edge of the body strap and the apex being located midway between the upper and lower edges of the strap, each pocket having a strap portion formed therein and extending to the upper edge, the strap portion being formed of elastic material permitting substantial stretching in the vertical direction only, and a shoulder strap being connected to each said strap portion in the upper central part thereof.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,926,078 Yonts Sept. 12, 1933 2,202,058 Malnick May 28, 1940 2,315,975 Malmstead Apr. 6, 1943 2,372,265 Fletcher Mar. 27, 1945 2,443,225 Cadous June 15, 1948 2,456,872 Hollar Dec. 21, 1948 2,506,172 Plehn May 2, 1950 2,651,040 Block Sept. 8, 1953 2,719,975 Rosenthal Oct. 11, 1955 2,776,432 Panes Jan. 8, 1957 2,786,206 Steiner Mar. 26, 1957 

